Tag Archives: knitting

Stellar knitting

Brioche knitting and assigned pooling

I’m happily knitting away on my Simply Stellar (brioche plus assigned pooling shawlette) sample, and test knitters are beginning theirs, too. I love this yarn combo; it’s Wildflowers (pooling) and Sassy (pink) Deluxe Sock from A Chick that Knitz. There is just a tiny overlap of that fuchsia in the pooling yarn, but not enough to be confusing to the eye. Perfect!

I misread my intentions and started with a US3 needle instead of a US4. Not a big difference, but I decided to change mid-project. I wouldn’t do that on a sweater, but on a bias brioche shawlette? It’s not really going to show. It might give it a tiny bit more drape, and it might make me finish a tiny bit sooner. I was 126 rows in when I decided to swap needles. And then I swapped needles again today after another 6 inches, because my yarn was catching on a rough spot where the needle goes into the metal join, grrr. So away with the Knitters Pride Ginger (I usually really like these), and onto a KnitPicks wooden interchangeable that was in my stash. Things are going more smoothly now.

Brioche knitting plus assigned pooling

Sometimes the pooling color pops up where you don’t want it. One way to deal with it is to knit a pooling motif in the background color of the pooling yarn. This will reset where the color pool happens.

Back side of brioche plus pooling

Another way is to cut your yarn and move the pooling color along. But that means you’ll have more ends to sew in. I don’t cut until I’m done with the project, because sometimes I frog entire projects! So I just pull up a big loop of the background color of the pooling yarn.

I’m enjoying this knit. I’ll have time to work on it this weekend. Airplane knitting! My sisters and I are going to our cousin’s wedding celebration. Yay, family time!

Test knit calls

Yes, two of them! Both are for accessories knit with brioche + pooling.

Scattered Petals cowl featuring brioche plus assigned pooling

Scattered Petals is a bandana-style cowl that features brioche plus assigned pooling. It’s knit in the round with 2 skeins of fingering weight yarn, one of which should be dyed for assigned pooling. The pattern is written for two sizes, and you can customize further if you wish. Yarn shown is from Yarn Snob/Knits All Done from Keith Leonard. Colors are Black Orchid and Wicked Green on A Good Fingering base.

beginning of a boomerang shawl featuring brioche plus assigned pooling

Simply Stellar is a shawlette featuring brioche and assigned pooling stars. It’s knit flat using 2 skeins of fingering weight yarn, one of which should be dyed for assigned pooling. This design is the result of a conversation I had at Nash Yarn Fest. Yarn dyer Tammy Pelfrey (A Chick That Knitz) mentioned that she loves my Starstruck Shawlette, but brioche + syncopated brioche + assigned pooling can be intimidating to newer brioche knitters. I decided to design a simpler shawlette with no syncopated border. There is minimal shaping as a backdrop to the assigned pooling stars. Yarn is A Chick that Knitz Singles Fingering in Tropical Flowers and Caribbean.

These two test knits are both mashups of brioche + assigned pooling. You should already know how to knit brioche to test knit. Previous experience with assigned pooling isn’t necessary; there’s a video tutorial for each assigned pooling motif.

Both of these patterns have been professionally tech edited. Why test knit? It helps me to fine tune the instructions. Tech editing gets me halfway there, but real life knitters really help. Test knitters get early access to the pattern and tutorials, and help future knitters. The test knits will run for 4 weeks. You provide your own yarn, and keep the sample you knit. Leave a note in the comments if you’re interested in test knitting; let me know which project.

I was merrily knitting along on my Simply Stellar, but then I decided I wanted to see what it looked like with more tonal contrast. I’m in love…guess I’m starting over because I’m obsessed. This is from A Chick that Knitz, Deluxe Sock in Wildflowers and Sassy.

Black Orchid diva

brioche knit swatch in dark purple and vivid green, with assigned pooling in pink and yellow

I ordered the green yarn to go with Black Orchid. What did I knit?

backyard knitting with wine

A giant swatch, apparently. Top down is easier to figure, because you choose the neck size, and then increase until you want to be done. This was knit from the bottom up because I wanted the motifs to face this way. I cast on too many stitches, and the finished cowl was too loose, too long, too…everything. Sometimes you *should* listen to that little voice that says STOP! I didn’t block this, because I didn’t want to set the yarn into ramen-style kinks. I knew it was headed for the frog pond!

brioche knitting with assigned pooling

I cast on with the remaining yarn to confirm my new choices. This may look the same to you, but it’s infinitely better. Not so loosey-goosey, and a more reasonable number of stitches so it won’t be so long/tall by the time I finish decreasing. With this bottom-up construction, the rounds have been getting shorter as I go. I frogged the first cowl when I ran out of yarn, and now I’m nearly done with this second one.

I made a video tutorial for the assigned pooling motif yesterday. It’s slightly different than the one for Fired Up. I’ll put up a test knit call soon, but I want an FO pic first.

What should I name this design?

Color is a mystery sometimes

Collage of a black hand knit cowl featuring assigned color pooling

I loved designing and knitting Fired Up. I knew exactly what the yarn wanted to be, as soon as it was placed in my hand. I’d been thinking about this assigned pooling motif for months. In fact, I had already been planning a brioche/assigned pooling piece with it!

Two skeins of yarn. One is very dark with a pink color pop, and the other is a light gray

I started working with this color combo back in December while in Hawaii. When I ordered it, I thought the pooling yarn was black, with a pink and yellow color pop. Gray would be great with black.

Black Orchid colorway is deep purple with pink and yellow pooling section

But it turns out that Black Orchid is really a very dark purple. I didn’t like it with the gray; it gave me a cold jangly feeling. I tried it with white too, just because I had some, but the white wanted to be the star of the show. Light colors pop, right? And the Black Orchid should be the real star of the show here.

purple yarn and purple orchids

This orchid color was gorgeous, and I hoped it would work.

purple on purple yarns

I loved it. (It was brighter in person.) This was the edging, with the purple orchid as the featured color, and syncopated flowers from the Black Orchid. The rest of the piece would feature Black Orchid with the leaf motif. But it was confusing to knit, because the colors were so similar. If it was confusing for me as the designer to knit, it would only be worse for the knitter. Back to the drawing board.

A black orchid is inspiration for the Black Orchid yarn colorway

I looked at Keith’s (the dyer’s) inspiration photo for the Black Orchid colorway…what about that vivid green? I had some leftover Bellina from my Peekaboo Cowl, so I knit up a little swatch.

A brioche knit swatch in deep purple and vibrant green, with a pop of pink and yellow

Bingo. Trust nature! More in next post.

Log Cabin Knitting winner, classes

samples of log cabin block knitting

And the winner is Helen Brisson! I’m emailing you so you can register for class. Congratulations!

If you didn’t win, you can still come to this online class. Register at the Vogue Knitting Live website; class is Saturday April 26. Edited to add: Flash! Use coupon code APRIL20 for 20% off remaining classes for this event.

Collage of shawlette, detail of shawlette, and the assigned pooling yarn

I’m teaching three classes via three venues that weekend. I’m teaching brioche + pooling in-person at For Yarn’s Sake in Beaverton on Sunday, April 27. Class is for knitters who can knit brioche rib. We’ll cover the increases and decreases, syncopation, and assigned pooling in class. Fun!

A brioche knit hat and cowl in shades of blue

And I’m kicking off that teaching weekend with Brioche Beginnings for Modern Daily Knitting online. Class is on Friday, April 25; you can register here.

Busy busy! These are my last classes for spring. May is…unsettled. Juggling lots of stuff in real life…

brioche knitting with assigned pooling, and a glass of wine

But I’m still knitting! Current project on the needles in Black Orchid and an unnamed green from Yarn Snob. I love this color combo.

Sweet Paprika Yarn Club

collage of brioche knit accessories with designer Michele Lee Bernstein

I’m designing for Sweet Paprika Designs’ Skill Building Yarn Club! This club will have six project boxes over the next year, with yarn dyed by Sweet Paprika Designs. The projects include mosaic knitting, lace, colorwork, cables, steeking, and brioche. I’ll be designing an all new accessory (hat/cowl?) for this project.

A ball of purple yarn

Each box includes yarn, tutorials, and a pattern. And a little extra yarn so you can sample the technique before casting on.

You can sign up for an individual box, or the whole club at a discount. Use code NEW-SKILLS for $5 off your order. Sign up at Sweet Paprika Designs website here.

Cowltastic

Black hand knit cowl featuring assigned pooling color motifs

Once I determined how to best make these motifs, this cowl was a hoot to knit. I made it a little longer in the front, to cover any gaps in a V-neckline.

The yarn is a worsted weight space-dyed, from Stranded By the Sea in Edmonds, Washington. I got it at Red Alder Fiber Arts Retreat in February.

Should I write up a pattern?

Someone on Instagram said it reminded them of holiday lights. i don’t want to limit ideas, but Light Bulb Moment felt like a great name. What do you think?

Stockinette 101

I taught two classes this past weekend. One was Brioche Pastiche, beginning brioche, at For Yarn’s Sake. So busy that I forgot to take a picture! So here are my samples of the various things you can knit with this pattern: Cowl or hat, plain or fancy, or somewhere in-between! Picture taken at the end of class.

Colorful brioche knit hats an cowls from Brioche Pastiche pattern

I also taught an entrelac class at Hook and Needle.

Knitting class

Entrelac is just a series a small stockinette squares or rectangles. It’s a good opportunity to evaluate your stockinette stitch! Does yours look like this?

or like this?

Twisted stockinette stitches

In conventional Western knitting, stitches sit on the needle with the right (leading) leg in front. In Eastern knitting, stitches sit on the needle with the left (trailing) leg in front. In either case, to keep your stitches open, not twisted, you work the stitches going into the open loop, not twisting them.

What makes your stitches sit on the needle with the right or left leg in front? It’s how you made your stitches in the previous row or round. If you wrap your stitches counterclockwise, the stitches will be mounted with the leading leg in front (conventional knitting). If you wrap your stitches clockwise, your new stitches will be mounted with the trailing leg in front. Do you mix it up? In Eastern Combined knitting, knit stitches are wrapped counterclockwise, and purl stitches are wrapped clockwise, resulting in a mix of stitch mounts.

Do some of your knit stitches have a little cross at the bottom of the V shaped stitch instead of being open? Do you want that crossed stitch? It does make your knitting tighter. But if you want it, you’re set. As long as you get the result you want, you’re doing it right! If you don’t want that cross, read on.

If you’re an Eastern Combined knitter and some of your stitches are twisted, and you’d like your knit stitches to be open at the bottom instead of twisted, you have two choices. You can change the direction of your purl, which would be conventional Western knitting. Or you can continue to wrap your purls the same way, but change how you enter the stitch on the next row or round.

Here’s a little video to show you how.

One more thought: If you wrap both your knits and purls clockwise, you’re an Eastern Uncrossed knitter. The principle is the same. As long as you work into the open stitch (not making it cross when you enter it), your new stitches will be fine. You just need to know how to work them on the following row or round.

How do you knit? English, right hand carry? Continental, left hand carry? Western? Eastern? Eastern Combined? Interestingly, four of my eight entrelac students were Eastern Combined knitters, some English and some Continental. One knew how to untwist her stitches already. The other three learned a new thing, besides entrelac.

Again, as long as you get the result you want, you’re doing it right. And if you’re mid-project and want to switch, wait until you’re done because it will definitely show.

Knit on, my friends!

Introducing Starstruck

Collage of shawlette, detail of shawlette, and the assigned pooling yarn

The Starstruck shawlette combines two of my favorite knitting techniques, brioche and assigned pooling. This asymmetric triangle is knit from the narrow end to the wide end. The syncopated edging evokes swirling nebulas, and the body of the shawlette features assigned pooling stars.

woman wearing a gray and caramel colored shawlette with white assigned pooling stars

The shawlette requires two skeins of fingering weight yarn, one of which should be dyed for assigned pooling. The assigned pooling yarn is featured in the body of the shawlette and stars, and the other yarn is featured in the syncopated edging.

detail of assigned pooling stars on brioche rib, and a syncopated brioche border

Your pooling yarn tells you when it’s time to make the stars. I knit my shawlette with A Chick That Knitz Singles Fingering, in Hibernation and Caramel.

This pattern is available on Ravelry and Payhip. Use coupon code NEBULA for 15% off through March 5, 2025.

Thanks to tech editor Meaghan Schmaltz, test knitters Ann Berg, Debbie Braden, Diane de Souza, Nancy McNally, Annette Morsing, Lynn Murphy, Brynn Riordan, Tammy Pelfrey, Anna Zeigler, and model Sharon Hsu.

Special thanks to Tammy Pelfrey/A Chick that Knitz, for the beautiful yarn for this design.

And yes, I did change the name of this design from Stardust Nebula to Starstruck. Shorter, punchier, easier to remember? I hope so!

Knitting, tinking, knitting Stardust Nebula

it shawlette standing in a knit art installation by Sarah Divi
Posing at Sarah Divi’s art installation at VKLive

I finished my current design project in a hurry so I could wear it at VogueKnitting Live last weekend. But I had 15 g of my pooling yarn left, and I still needed to make a video tutorial on how to make the assigned pooling stars, and the shawlette needs re-blocking anyway so I can take product photos…

so I tinked the bind off and the last couple rows, and put it back on the needles. I added 18 more rows at the wide end, about 3 inches longer and 1.5 inches wider, unblocked.

tiny ball of yarn on scale, weighing 0.5 grams

Yarn chicken is so much better when you have a scale to keep track. I won!

two cats on a bed, with knitting

I had great helpers. Caturday knitting in bed is great, even when it’s work!

Video tutorial is done. Shawlette is blocking, again. Pattern has gone to tech editor and test knitters. It’s still called Stardust Nebula for now. We shall see. If you’d like to be the first to know when this pattern is published, sign up for my newsletter here!

In the meantime, here are a couple book recommendations from me. I like to read while I knit; I can control the pace, unlike television. I usually read fiction, but the last two books have been nonfiction. First off, The Wide, Wide Sea by Hampton Sides. It’s the story of Captain James Cook’s final journey from England to the South Seas to Alaska to the South Seas again. I knew he died at Kealakekua Bay on the Big Island of Hawaii, but this filled it all in for me.

Captain Cook monument at Kealakekua

We were at Kealakekua Bay last month. I didn’t want to hike 2 miles down and 2 miles back up (you can also get there by boat), so I settled for seeing it across the bay from Hikiau Heiau at Nāpo’opo’o Beach, a place that Cook had visited (and been mistaken for a god). Apparently he was mortal, after all.

The other book is The Art Thief by Michael Finkel. It’s the story of Stéphane Breitwieser, who stole more than 300 artworks from museums and churches across western Europe in the 1990’s and early 2000’s. Fascinating true crime.

What are you reading and knitting? January is flying by!