Star Flower Shawl design process

Star Flower Shawl

I wore my Star Flower Shawl for the first time yesterday. It went perfectly with my new dress. So happy! This shawl was in the works from spring until fall; it took a long time to work out all the details.

I always say that as a designer, I make the mistakes so you don’t have to. They’re not really mistakes, though. They’re choices, depending on what I think looks good, and what I think is easily explainable and repeatable.

Dream in Color Smooshy, Tip Top Tangerine and Sonoran Magic

I chose these colors for an assigned pooling shawl. I planned to base it on my Aloha Shawl, with a contrast color floral triangle that moved into alternating sections of pooling and an accent stripe in contrast color. I thought this would be a simple design process. Nope.

The yarns have a nice tonal contrast with each other. But the colors in the applied pooling skein didn’t have a lot of tonal contrast with each other.

My first attempt told me that the pink flowers were lost on a stockinette stitch background. I could also see that my floral stripe was too bold, and stole the show from the assigned pooling.

where are my flowers?

I noticed on the back side of the fabric, the star/flower popped better against the reverse stockinette stitches, but I wouldn’t want something as dense as reverse stockinette on the right side of the shawl. Garter stitch was my next best choice. Also, I wouldn’t want the beginning and end of the wrap to be so prominent, so we’d have to begin and end the wraps on the wrong side of the fabric. Okay! I also made the flower bands smaller.

I knit nearly the entire shawl before realizing that I’d never like the smaller floral bands after blocking; they wouldn’t be round enough. They looked like columns with headers and footers, and would not be improved by blocking.

(No picture because it was late at night when I had this epiphany, and I wanted to frog it immediately.)

So I frogged back to the first floral stripe, and opted for this one instead. It’s an old favorite that I’ve used on several previous designs (Sophie’s Rose, Aloha Shawl, Nymphaea, Embellishment Cowl). I wasn’t planning to have so many features in common with Aloha, but it was the best choice.

I wasn’t sure I’d like this shawl until after blocking, but I forged on, and fell in love with the finished piece. So pretty!

I wanted to knit one more with a more contrasty applied pooling yarn, and also to double check my stitch counts for the lacy edging. It was then that I discovered that I didn’t like the star flowers to have garter ridges on the front of the fabric when there was this much tonal contrast (ridges depend on if you start the star flower on the right side or wrong side, wherever the pooling color begins).

So I changed my draft pattern to have the garter ridges fall to the wrong side of the fabric. Much better. I was knitting this version on a camping trip to see the Perseid meteor showers, and suddenly this piece became the night sky. Stars, trailing meteor streaks, the contrast bands as the Milky Way. Which made me want to rip the whole thing out again so I could have the extra color pop all to one side of each star flower like a shooting star, instead of centering the flower in the color pop with color running out to each side. But NO, it really wasn’t worth knitting the whole thing over again. You can do it that way, if you want to.

So my Star Flower Shawl could also be Meteor Shower/Perseids. Knitters’ choice!

Qiviut cowl update

Every time I picked up my knitting, the cast on edge bugged me. It was a little too tight, and it was curling badly. I didn’t know if it was going to block out, and that made me hesitant to continue.

So I ripped it out. And while I was ripping it out, I started thinking…of course I did. I liked the fabric I was getting with the US 6 needles. I knew about how many stitches I needed for a cowl. And wouldn’t it be nice if it had fewer patterning rounds, and more plain knit since it’s so hard to see the dark stitches?

Do-over!

I cast on loosely, and then knit two garter ridges (4 rounds) before beginning the Old Shale lace patterning. I wanted a substantial edge that wouldn’t curl. I also wanted to put the first lace patterning row further away from the edge, hoping that would also help prevent the curl.

The Bubble Net pattern had patterning on Rounds 1 and 3, and plain knitting on rounds 2 and 4. I’m working Old Shale (with no garter ridges), which has easily memorized patterning on Round 1, then 3 plain rounds. Less paying attention, perfect. I’m very happy with the new start.

I guess I’m designing my own cowl after all.

I’m knitting on Knit Picks Rainbow Options (birch) interchangeable needles. I picked these up at their Knit in Public Day in June. They have just enough grip with this skinny yarn.

Oh, I want to give a shout out to this ebook, Old Shale Variations edited by Mary Spanos from the Greater Birmingham Fiber Guild. It’s a free download on Ravelry, and chronicles the guild’s group project of varying ways to knit Old Shale lace: wider, narrower, garter, stockinette, etc. Very fun to see how you can change the appearance.

I chose to use stockinette (no purling, in the round), and a short number of rounds. Fewer rounds means more complete repeats before heading into an ending garter stitch edge and bind off. (Example: If you only have enough yarn for 10 rounds, you can knit two 4 round repeats, or *zero* 12 round repeats which would waste a lot of this precious yarn. Shorter is better.)

Do you listen to that little voice that tells you to DO OVER? Sometimes I wait a lot longer, and the ripping is brutal! Glad I listened early.

On the needles: Qiviut and Chroma!

I just finished a design project (picture soon). I’m a monogamous knitter, so that meant I had nothing on the needles. Quelle horreur! I poked around my limited stash, and found the qiviut I bought at Changing Tides in Juneau while on the Vogue Knitting Alaska Cruise in September.

This is one ounce of qiviut/qiveut (musk ox yarn), 200 yards. I guess that means it’s laceweight, not fingering! I don’t usually enjoy knitting with laceweight, but this is so fluffy, it doesn’t feel skinny.

Especially when knitting on US 6 needles! I poked around on Ravelry to see what other people made with a single skein of this yarn. The Bubble Net cowl is a popular choice. I bought the pattern and cast on. Yes, I could have chosen any simple lace pattern and figured something out, but this will be a one and done project. It’s not a design project and I wanted someone else to do the gauge/cast on math/needle sizing for me. Perfect!

The lace is a four row repeat, and two of those rows are just knitting rest rows. But the other two require chanting in my head, especially because the yarn is dark and it’s hard to read my knitting.

knit blanket square
Knit Picks Chroma Twist in Sandpiper

So I also cast on a second project. Quite a novelty to have more than one project! This is one block out of 9 planned blanket blocks. I have the yarn for this project because I designed the Impressionist Kaleidoscope Blanket for Knit Picks in 2021. They sent me enough yarn for the design, but I only knit one of the blocks while designing it, the one pictured above. The rest of the blocks are all knit the same, so I didn’t knit them!

Knit Picks Chroma Twist in Lupine

Knit Picks chose their own color for the sample knit. It’s all garter stitch, from the mitered squares in the center to the log cabin borders. The pattern is easy to remember, but the constant change from mitered square to mitered square, and then to the log cabin border keeps the knitting interesting. It’s not just one big garter stitch blob.

Chroma Twist yarn changes color on its own, giving each blanket square its own dynamic personality. And the pattern is free! It was part of Knit Picks’ Twelve Weeks of Gifting in 2021. I’ll knit on this when it’s too dark to see my qiviut stitches, or if I need to zone out while dreaming of what I’m designing next…

How many projects do you have on your needles?

Reminder: Match your yarn to your needles

I was looking through my blog for a bit of information, and I ran into this post which I am now reposting, because it’s still so true!

I did all my swatching for my new design on my trusty Hiya Hiya stainless needles, but the slipping of the first stitch was aggravating.

When it came to actually knit the piece, I switched to my Knitters Pride Ginger needles, and that made a huge difference. Just a little more grippy, and I felt secure knitting this skinny superwash yarn on US 3 needles.

Aspen Leaf Brioche Cowl, coming soon

My favorite needle changes from project to project; it’s good to have alternatives depending on the characteristics of your yarn! What are you knitting/knitting with these days?

Why does it matter? Original blog post from 2022 below:

Match your yarn to your needles! I don’t mean by color. In fact, it’s helpful to have a contrasting color needle so you can see your stitches! Although I do remember the time I knit a black tank top on ebony needles. Good thing I knit mostly by feel.

When I was at Red Alder Fiber Arts Retreat, I took a class from my friend Carson Demers, author of Knitting Comfortably. Carson is a physical therapist, and specializes in ergonomics. One tip he gave was this: If your yarn is slippery, you might want to choose a grippier needle so you’re not fighting for control. I do love my HiyaHiya stainless steel needles for most knitting, but this skinny Schmutzerella Spectacular superwash was a bit challenging on them. I was more comfortable using my Knitters Pride Ginger wooden needles for this project.

In this picture, I’m moving my knitting off my metal needles back onto my wooden needles. I do love both kinds of needles, depending on the project. I had been using the metal needle as a stitch holder so I could borrow the wooden one for something else.

I’m not saying you should never use metal needles with superwash; I don’t usually have an issue with them. It may depend on your yarn content, or yarn size. Choose what is comfortable for you while you’re swatching (or starting over because you’re not comfortable…) PS: Don’t change needles mid-project; that can change your gauge!

Do you have a favorite type of needle? Or does it depend? What are you knitting with right now?

Celebrating Brioche Knit Love

Brioche Knit Love

October marks the second anniversary of the publication of my book, Brioche Knit Love. I wrote it in 2021, as an extension of my love for designing and teaching brioche knitting. It’s still my favorite kind of knitting!

Seafoam Latte scarf

I’m so glad I had the opportunity to write this book. It was first published by Marie Greene’s Library House Press, which no longer exists. Since then it sold out, and I had to figure out how to keep it going.

Printing 1000 copies and running a warehouse from my home? I didn’t have the mental bandwidth for that. In May I finally figured out how to sell it via Amazon/Kindle Publishing Direct, and that works really well for me. I don’t have to mail anything myself, which is great. I also sell the books wholesale to local yarn shops, if it works for both of us. Winner!

I’ve been enjoying all the Brioche Knit Love Facebook Memories posts this month, so I wanted to share that bit of fun.

Seagull Flight

If you want a book that takes you from beginning to more advanced brioche, Brioche Knit Love is the book for you. I made video tutorials to go with the book, too, for a complete brioche experience.

Currently on the needles: more brioche! It’s all about the syncopated brioche edges on this piece. I’m knitting with this gorgeous Anzula Lucero DK which has a bit of sparkle in it.

I’m finding that I’m on a roll with wooden needles; I really like them for a little more control than my usual stainless steel. These needles are Knitters Pride Ginger. I like the finish on these birch needles; they’re not overly slick. But not sticky, either!

Do you have a favorite type of needle? I find it depends on the yarn. For this project, these needles are perfect!

Coming soon: a bit of brioche

Aspen leaves on a brioche cowl

I just finished knitting the second iteration of this piece, a bit smaller than the one shown. It’s a cowl that looks like a triangular shawl. This is one of my favorite shapes, because it’s so easy to wear. No danger of falling off!

Swatching with a Dutch 75 on our Alaska cruise last month

The cowl features syncopated brioche rib, and an aspen leaf motif that climbs along the edge. It takes two skeins of fingering weight yarn in contrasting colors. I knit both sizes with my two skeins of Manos del Uruguay Alegria.

I’m looking for a few brioche-loving test knitters. Is that you? Let me know!

Introducing: Star Flower Shawl

Star Flower Shawl: Dream in Color Smooshy, Tip Top Tangerine and Sonoran Magic

This gorgeous shawl has been in the works since last spring! I wanted it to be absolutely perfect, and let the yarn tell me what it should be. The first idea was a whisper, and I refined it several times until it sang out. The shawl features flowers and assigned pooling stars (or are they flowers, too?) on a garter stitch background. I love that it has more than just assigned pooling; lace adds a harmonious counterpoint. And it’s an answer to several knitters who wanted a shawl instead of a cowl.

Star Flower Shawl: Dream in Color Smooshy, Bali Wood and Rabbit Ears

Choose two 420 yard skeins of fingering weight yarn and enjoy the star show! I loved choosing these color combinations in Dream in Color Smooshy.

Star Flower Shawl: Dream in Color Smooshy, Violet Fields and Lime Ice

So much so that I helped test knitter Ann Berg pick these for her version, too!

Pink Pop and Sonoran Magic would also be lovely!

The Star Flower Shawl pattern is available through Ravelry, link here.

It’s also available through Payhip, link here.

Use coupon code SHINE through October 25, 2023 for 15% off the pattern on either site. Edit: I’m extending this to October 28, 2023 because I forgot to post to Instagram before Rhinebeck weekend, and it got a little lost!

Thank you to tech editor Jen Lucas, test knitter Annie Berg, and model Sharon Hsu.

Three lacy flowers at the center neckline
Star Flowers

This combination made me think of meteor showers amid the Milky Way. What do you want yours to be?

A little more OFFF

The marketplace at Oregon Flock and Fiber Festival opens on Saturday. Friday is a quiet day, just classes and a lot of setup.

Some of the steekers

You have to make your own excitement, and we did that in the morning by reinforcing and cutting steeks, eek! (And I see that my students are suggestible, using the same colors I did in the Sheepy Steeky Coasters pattern!)

We had the assigned pooling class in the afternoon, which is another kind of excitement. I think of these skill builders as party trick knitting.

On Saturday morning, there was a complete annular eclipse (95% of the sun blocked by the moon) right after class started. Unfortunately it was foggy AND cloudy in Albany, so we just saw gray sky. Five percent of the sun’s light is still a lot of light; we didn’t really see any difference, although Karen and I were ready with our eclipse glasses. Mine were leftover from the 2017 total eclipse.

We went back in for the Minerva Entrelac class. The party trick in entrelac (besides the entrelac), is knitting back backwards without turning your work. It’s a great skill to have when your rows are only 8 stitches long!

I didn’t have an afternoon class, so I made a quick tour through the market and the exhibits. (I had to get home to deal with some…stuff, so I didn’t get to visit the animals in the barn. Next time.)

Wanda Jenkins

Wanda called me over in the market to show me Ed’s newest spindles, the Merlin (left). It has 6 legs, and it’s magical. The smaller one on the right is so new that it’s still being worked out. Ed Jenkins makes the loveliest Turkish spindles.

My favorite pieces in this year’s Fiber Arts Exhibit were felted!

Wet Felt Raven #6 by Mady Wolsfeld

I love the raven, and the moody sky behind it.

Maisie’s Menagerie by Dana Nishimura

This piece took the Grand Champion Award. Here’s the description:

A lot of work and an impressive FO.

As I said, I didn’t have much time to spend, so that’s my abbreviated OFFF report for this year! Did you go? What did you love?

Assigned pooling kits!

Update: I have requests for more yarn than I have left. I’ll go through my email and let everyone know if I have yarn for them. Thanks so much your interest!

I’m back from Oregon Flock and Fiber Festival; I enjoyed teaching and a quick spin through the market and exhibits. But first: I have a bit of extra yarn from my pooling class, and wanted to offer it in kits with my patterns that go with it. The kit includes 1 skein of Yarn Snob’s A Wondrous Worsted in the Times Square colorway and download codes for my TWO patterns that were designed with it. You get to choose which project to knit!

Pooling is a Cinch (hat and cowl)
Firefly Trails Cowl

The kit is $36 including shipping to USA addresses. The retail value of this kit before shipping is $43 (yarn and two patterns). Interested? Please leave a comment and I’ll email you back. (You can tell that kits are not my usual business; I’m not set up to do this automatically.)

Pooling really is a cinch! Here’s longtime OFFF volunteer Sue, happily pooling away during class. You can do it, too!

More on OFFF when I catch up with myself…

Classes, in person! and online

Class at Hook and Needle Fiber, Vancouver WA

Over the past 4 years I’ve taught a lot on Zoom, and a little at select retreats and events. This past weekend, I taught in person at a local to me LYS, which is the first time since 2020. We had a good time with Petite Brioche! (I didn’t think to take a picture til after class, so not all 9 students are pictured, oops.)

Brioche Pastiche, Cap and Cowl

I’ve just listed the followup to that class at Hook and Needle Fiber. It’s on Sunday Nov. 5 at 1:30 pm. We’ll be using my Brioche Pastiche pattern for a gentle introduction to brioche increases and decreases. Register here. Come knit with me!

Thrumbelina slippers

I’m also teaching the Thrill of the Thrum in-person at For Yarn’s Sake in Beaverton OR on Sunday Oct. 22 at 1:30 pm. These ridiculously cozy Thrumbelina slippers are fun to make. Class is sold out, but check to see if there’s a waiting list.

Oregon Flock and Fiber classes

I’m teaching at Oregon Flock and Fiber Festival in Albany OR on Oct. 13 and 14. Friday’s classes are Sheepy Steeky Coasters (your first steek!) and Assigned Color Pooling. Minerva Entrelac Cowl is Saturday morning’s class, and we may take a break in the middle of that one for the annular solar eclipse. Bring your eclipse glasses!

Virtual VKLive October classes

Not local to me? I’m also teaching for Virtual Vogue Knitting Live Oct. 27-29. I’ll be teaching slip stitch knitting (Slip Away Cowl), Brioche Pastiche, and syncopated brioche (Syncopation Shawl or Scarf), and giving a lecture: Blocking: It’s Magic! Registration opens tomorrow; you can preview classes today. Scroll down to find the right event; there’s a lot going on including registration for January’s big show, VKLive NYC.

It’s shaping up to be a fun month! Are you knitting more, now that it’s fall? Or spring, depending where you are? I knit year round, but I feel like fall is the beginning of the year. Birthday, school year, a chilly great awakening. What’s on your knitting bucket list for learning this year?